Recently, I had the fantastic chance to embark on a local tour around Kawasaki Daishi Station, and it turned out to be an unforgettable adventure. Just a 40-minute train ride from the bustling heart of Tokyo, Kawasaki Daishi invites you to step into a world where history, culture, and nostalgia intertwine, offering a refreshing escape from the frenetic pace of city life. This hidden gem is a testament to the rich heritage that can often be found beyond the urban sprawl, just waiting to be explored.
| Kawasaki Daishi Station: Where the Keikyu Railway began
After meeting my guide, Ms. Isomura, at Kawasaki Station, we hopped on the Keikyu Daishi Line. This was an experience in itself because our destination–Kawasaki Daishi Station–holds historical significance as the birthplace of the Keikyu Railway, the first electrified railway in the Kanto region. Near the station, we visited a monument in the shape of a train wheel, commemorating this important part of Japan’s railway history. It’s fascinating how this quiet corner of Kanagawa Prefecture played such a pivotal role in modernizing Japan’s train system.
| Stepping into the past along Omotesando street
The walk down Omotesando street towards Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji Temple was like stepping into a nostalgic scene from the Showa Era (1926 – 1989). Its small shops, retro signage, and overall old-school charm offered a stark contrast to the ultra-modern look of downtown Tokyo. As I strolled along, the irresistible aroma of freshly grilled senbei (traditional rice crackers) led me to Raijindou, a store famous for its handmade senbei. Brushed with soy sauce and wrapped in crisp seaweed, these senbei offered the perfect balance of flavor and texture–a simple yet satisfying delight that still lingers in my memory. It’s experiences like these that give Omotesando its unique charm, offering an authentic taste of old Japan that’s becoming harder to find.
| The sweet rhythms of Nakamise shopping street
After a short stroll down Omotesando, we arrived at Nakamise shopping street. The rhythmic “tontoko tontoko” sound of candy being chopped, drew me to Matsuya Sohonten, a candy shop that’s been in business since 1872. Watching the candy being stretched and cut into small pieces was both mesmerizing and mouthwatering. The precision and rhythm involved in cutting the candy is no easy task–you have to chop it with a steady, rhythmic motion, and this level of mastery takes practice. I even had the chance to put on the shop’s uniform and try stretching and cutting the candy myself. Let me tell you, it was much harder than it looked! Getting the rhythm right while ensuring the candy was evenly cut was a real challenge, but it made me appreciate the skill and craftsmanship involved even more.
Walking further down Nakamise shopping street, I discovered Sumiyoshi, a shop famous for its kuzumochi, a chewy dessert made from fermented flour. Served with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup) and kinako (soybean flour), it’s a must-try. Locals say you haven’t truly experienced Kawasaki Daishi until you’ve tasted this delicacy, and I have to agree–it was the best Japanese sweet I’d had in a long time.
| A glimpse into history at Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji Temple
Kawasaki Daishi Station is not just a transit hub; it’s a gateway to the famous Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji Temple, renowned for its rituals to ward off evil and misfortune. Walking through the temple grounds, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of reverence for the centuries-old traditions preserved here. The temple’s atmosphere, filled with the scent of incense and the low hum of Buddhist chants, transports you to a different time.
The English guide shared the fascinating history of Kanenori Hirama, a samurai who, nearly 900 years ago, was exiled to Kawasaki. Guided by a dream, he discovered a sacred statue of Kobo Daishi in the sea and, together with a priest named Sonken, established this temple in 1128. Their devotion laid the foundation for the Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji Temple we see today.
Hearing this story made me appreciate the deep cultural and spiritual significance this temple holds for locals. The connection between spirituality and daily life in this area is something that deeply resonated with me, leaving a lasting impression.
| A spiritual journey: The Goma prayer ritual at Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji Temple
The true spiritual heart of the visit came at the temple’s Main Hall, where I participated in the Goma prayer ritual. This traditional ceremony, led by the temple’s monks, involves chanting sacred phrases to ward off evil. Being so close to the temple’s statue of Kobo Daishi (the founder of Shingon Buddhism), and participating in such an ancient and meaningful ritual was a profoundly peaceful and humbling experience. In the serene temple setting, I felt a deep connection to Japan’s rich Buddhist traditions, making this moment the highlight of the entire tour.
After the ritual, I wandered through the temple grounds, where the beauty of the surrounding landscape further deepened my sense of peace. The traditional Japanese garden, with its meticulously pruned trees and calm pond, felt like stepping into a living painting. The vermilion Yasuragi Bridge, gracefully arching over the pond, added a vibrant splash of color to the serene environment. Nearby, the octagonal five-story pagoda stood proudly, contributing to the overall sense of harmony. I was particularly captivated by the weeping willow trees swaying gently in the breeze, their reflections dancing on the water’s surface. The scene was so beautiful, I wished I could etch every fine detail into my memory forever.
| A memorable meal at restaurant Hayama
For lunch, we visited Hayama, a soba restaurant beloved by locals–and I quickly discovered why. The set meal was an absolute delight, featuring perfectly cooked soba (buckwheat) noodles and a selection of crispy tempura. The soba, dipped in a delicious sauce with every bite, was so refreshing and light, yet deeply satisfying. The tempura, consisting of fried shrimp and seasonal vegetables, was crisp on the outside and tender on the inside–truly a heavenly pairing to the noodles.
One of the highlights of the meal, and something I hadn’t experienced before, was the soba-yu (the hot water in which the soba is cooked). Ms. Isomura kindly pointed out the teapot containing the soba-yu, which I might have missed otherwise. When I poured it into my dipping sauce after finishing my soba, the result was a warm, savory broth that perfectly rounded out the meal. It was a small but impactful addition that made the whole dining experience even more authentic and comforting. Hayama’s soba is easily one of the most delicious meals I’ve had in a while, and I can see why it’s a local favorite.
| A place of discovery for all
Kawasaki Daishi is more than just a day trip from Tokyo–it’s a journey into the heart of Japanese culture, history, and spirituality. From the nostalgic streets to the ancient rituals at the temple, every step offers a glimpse into Japan’s days of yore, brimming with timeless charm. Whether you’re a history buff, foodie, or spiritual seeker, Kawasaki Daishi has something special to offer.