When people think of snow sports, they probably imagine the European Alps, the Canadian Rockies, or the various ski resorts across the United States, but did you know that some of the world’s best powder snow can actually be found in Japan?
Japan is fast becoming one of the premier ski destinations in the world, thanks to its legendary “Japow,” a term coined to refer to its soft powder snow. Due to Japan’s dry winter climate, the snowfall here is extremely light and fluffy, perfect for skiing and snowboarding. There are a number of resorts across the country, with the Japanese Alps running through Honshu and the mountainous region of Hokkaido to the north.
Some of the most well-known resorts include Niseko in Hokkaido, as well as Hakuba in Nagano, which see thousands of visitors every ski season. While these places are phenomenal, they are also incredibly busy, which is why I want to share with you one of my favorite spots: the underrated Madarao Mountain Resort that sits right on the border of Nagano and Niigata.
I first discovered Madarao thanks to a friend’s connection. Madarao, much like many ski resorts across the country, is home to a number of akiya (empty houses). Chalets, apartment complexes, and individual homes that were built during Japan’s economic boom were left empty and derelict when the bubble burst in the early 1990s. Today, these properties have become opportunities, especially for the international market, with many being bought up, renovated, and returned to their former glory.
The connection in question, a fellow international resident predominantly based in Tokyo, has done just that, buying up a large chalet close to the slopes and turning it into a second home open to all their friends to visit. I was first invited in February 2023, arriving by Shinkansen at Iyama Station before taking the bus to the chalet. Having settled into my room and introduced myself to all the new faces, who were friends of the owner, I was eager to hit the slopes and see what Madarao really had to offer.
Now, while I am not an avid skier, I have experience on the slopes in a number of locations, including the French Alps, Vermont close to the Canadian border, and on one occasion, an indoor ski resort in the middle of the desert in Dubai. I had also visited a couple of well-known spots in Japan, including Nagano’s Hakuba and Hokkaido’s Rusutsu. Both of them were phenomenal, but I had high hopes for Madarao as well.
While Madarao was once considered an “undiscovered gem,” it has grown in popularity in recent years, but not yet to the extent of other resorts. This means that while it’s not empty, it’s not packed either. Mt. Madarao stands at 1,382 meters tall and has 32 separate courses running down its slopes, offering a great deal of variety. The area receives an annual snowfall of roughly 10–13 meters, and the snow is consistently soft and fluffy. The resort makes the most of this by leaving a number of courses ungroomed so that snow enthusiasts can test their skills in deep powder.
Beyond the snow, one of Madarao’s highlights is its tree courses. For thrill seekers, such as myself, these are great for winding your way through, gritting your teeth as you weave to avoid slamming face-first into a tree trunk. For real adrenaline junkies, there are also a few off-piste opportunities to really blaze your own trail.
One of my favorite courses to tackle was an ungroomed black diamond that ran from the very top of the mountain all the way to the bottom. From the peak, you can gaze out over the stunning view of the Japanese Alps, whilst also staring down the rather steep slope you are about to descend.
As I mentioned earlier, I am not an avid skier, so simply throwing myself down this slope was not on the cards. I took my time, zigzagging from one side to the other, my heart racing every time I gained momentum, worried it would carry me all the way to the bottom at breakneck speed. The nice thing about taking it slow, though, was that I got to look up and appreciate the view of the mountains rising higher the further down I went.
The one downside I would mention about Madarao is something that plagues a few Japanese resorts: the ski lifts are a tad dated. But overall, Madarao is a great place to visit for all levels, with a strong mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced slopes. I will be putting the beginner slopes to the test this winter, as I take my fiance with me to try skiing for the first time ever!
For those visiting with young children, there is a kid-friendly area with sledding, snow tubes, and Japanese-style igloos to enjoy. There is also a school for those interested in taking ski or snowboard lessons, with English-speaking instructors available!
So, if you are looking to hit the slopes in Japan, why not add Madarao to your list?
