In Tokyo—Japan’s vibrant metropolis and the largest city on Earth (by population)—there’s so much to do that you’ll never manage to experience it all, even if you lived here your entire life. From thousands of restaurants serving up some of the world’s finest cuisine to museums showcasing famous works of art, from arcades filled with hundreds of games to shopping districts that will keep you busy for days, Tokyo has something for everyone.
One thing I struggle with whilst living here, though, is getting out into nature. Sure, Tokyo has some lovely parks—Yoyogi, Ueno, and Shinjuku Gyoen, just to name a few—but truly escaping the hustle and bustle, the constant throng of people, the unyielding concrete, and the web of wires can be a challenge. That said, it’s not impossible.
Okutama: Escape the urban jungle without leaving Tokyo
Tokyo, as a prefecture, extends far beyond the city itself. Surrounding the central hub are sprawling suburbs, and further out, you’ll find mountains, rivers, and reservoirs. So, when I need to escape the city, unwind, and get my much-needed dose of fresh mountain air, I head to Okutama.
Okutama is the westernmost point of Tokyo, nestled between Saitama to the north and east, and Yamanashi to the west. Here, skyscrapers give way to mountains, and bustling streets are replaced by flowing rivers. Just over two hours from Tokyo Station, Okutama is easily accessible and offers plenty for those looking to unwind and reconnect with Japan’s natural beauty. For a while, I was lucky enough to live just over an hour away, making day and weekend trips to Okutama an easy escape for my partner and me.
From outdoor adventures to zen-like bliss
Despite its remote feel, Okutama has a lot to offer. For outdoor enthusiasts, it’s the perfect destination for camping, hiking, and water sports like river rafting and kayaking. For those seeking a slower, more relaxed pace of life, that’s easy to find here too.
The first time my partner and I visited, we spent the night at Hikawa Campsite, which is positioned right alongside the river. We pitched our (borrowed) tent on the stony shoreline, surrounded by other happy campers. If tents are not your thing, they also offer wooden chalets. It’s a truly stunning spot, with cherry blossoms unfurling in spring, verdant greens adorning the mountains in summer, and fiery reds and coppers taking over in fall.
After setting up camp, exploring the area was next on our list. Okutama is well-known for its limestone caves, such as Nippara, which we reached by bus. The cave system is pretty cool—figuratively and literally (I recommend bringing a jacket!). You can traverse narrow passageways and explore vast caverns, all illuminated with colorful lights.
Another recommended spot is Lake Okutama, a large dam surrounded by greenery, featuring a very Instagrammable floating bridge. In the summer months, I highly recommend bringing bug spray—those little pests love still water surfaces. As beautiful as the area is, they can be quite the nuisance. Though I haven’t experienced it myself, I’ve heard the area is stunning in fall.
Along with sightseeing, there are plenty of activities to enjoy in the area. Thanks to the pristine river, water sports are extremely popular. Several outdoor companies offer activities such as standup paddleboarding (SUP), kayaking and white-water rafting—the latter being what I did with my partner. Though I had done it before, it was my partner’s first time. He was initially a tad trepidatious, but he ended up loving the experience. From the adrenaline rush of hitting the rapids to the serenity of simply floating on the river and taking in the view, we had a fantastic time.
You don’t need to spend money to enjoy the river, though—many people simply wade in to cool off with a swim. (That said, I urge caution when swimming, as the river’s current can be quite strong.)
Where to eat in Okutama: Pizza, craft beer and DIY BBQs
After all that activity, we definitely deserved a good meal! While the area doesn’t have a huge number of restaurants, the ones that do exist are charming and delicious. My favorite is somewhat of a hidden gem—literally. Hachinoki, a small pizza and BBQ restaurant, is tucked away beneath one of the main bridges near Okutama Station. It can be tricky to find, as Google Maps places the pin beside the bridge rather than underneath it. But once you make your way there, you are greeted by a cozy, unassuming space featuring a wood-burning pizza oven and breathtaking views. Grab a seat by the window, and enjoy a delicious, reasonably priced pizza whilst gazing out over the lush river valley.
Another great spot is Vertere, a craft beer taproom and brewery with a decent menu featuring hot dogs, salads, and curried sausage with chips. You can sit out on the wooden patio and soak in the warm weather whilst enjoying a locally brewed beer.
But for the best dining experience in Okutama, nothing beats having your own BBQ! The campsite offers designated BBQ spots and provides equipment and fuel. My partner and I opted for a more hands-on approach, building our own fire pit on the riverbank using stones before placing a grill over it. We picked up assorted meats and veggies from the local shops and spent the night cooking over our makeshift stove. The food tasted all the better knowing we had built the fire from scratch and cooked everything ourselves.
Relax, recharge, and return again
With its stunning natural beauty and relaxed vibes, Okutama is the perfect place to unwind. That’s made even easier thanks to its tattoo-friendly onsen, Moegi no Yu—a spot I haven’t visited yet but definitely will on my next trip!
If you’re looking to escape Tokyo and immerse yourself in nature without the need for a shinkansen ride, this is the ideal destination—one I will keep returning to for as long as I live here.
