You know you are in for something special when, on the way to Nippori Station on the eternally jammed Yamanote Line, you find yourself in an almost empty train watching the buildings get smaller and smaller.
Affectionately known as YaNeSen (YAnaka / NEzu / SENdagi), this part of Tokyo was untouched by fire bombings during World War II, which may help explain why it has managed to retain the tranquility and charm usually reserved for small towns in Japan’s minor islands. The area is a treasure trove of old wooden buildings, pint-sized restaurants and surprises.
YaNeSen is not flashy, but rather retains the atmosphere of Showa Era (1926 – 1989) Tokyo, away from the bustling crowd.
The curtain of quiet drops as soon as you get about 100 meters away from Nippori Station, and slowly start to walk down the shady lanes of the wonderful Yanaka Cemetery. There, amongst the graves of the brightest minds (painters, authors, politicians, etc.) of the Meiji (1868 – 1912) and Taisho (1912 – 1926) periods, the quiet is only broken by the chirping of grasshoppers and the chanting of monks from one of the myriad of temples in the area. The slight smell of incense and flowers carries on the wind, and in the clearings you can see Tokyo Tower.
The food choices are vast, and equally tinted with the nostalgia of the area. The wooden interior and soundtrack of old French songs at Jinenjo somehow perfectly compliment the medicinal curry that contains a whole series of specially selected herbs and vegetables to up your healthiness…which then, of course, gets seriously challenged by all the little bakeries and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) stores.
The stroll from Yanaka to Nezu is pleasantly quiet, eventually finishing off with a visit to Nezu Shrine (and one of the delicious rice sweets sold nearby).
Yanesen area: https://www.japan.travel/de/spot/2112/
Want to learn more local secrets? Check out: http://moveovergodzilla.blogspot.jp/