Tucked away in the heart of the San’in region—located in the southwest of Honshu, Japan’s main island—is the Izumo Shinbutsu Pilgrimage. This pilgrimage features 20 shrines and temples around the greater Izumo region in Shimane and Tottori prefectures. Unlike other famous pilgrimages, such as the Shikoku 88, the Izumo Shinbutsu Pilgrimage is distinct in that it blends Shinto and Buddhist religions. It visits some of the most famous shrines and temples in the region, as well as more off-the-beaten-path locations. The path winds along small seaside ports, through terraced rice fields, and up the slopes of Mt. Daisen.
Shimane Prefecture, specifically Izumo City, is often called “The Land of the Gods”. This area is documented in the oldest written records of Japan and is still considered one of the most sacred places in the country. Many tourists visit Izumo Taisha for hatsumode or the first prayer of the year. The deity enshrined there is Okizumi a god associated with matchmaking, so people come to pray for success in finding a partner or for the well-being of their marriage and other relationships. Legend has it that every fall, 8 million gods gather from across Japan and meet at Izumo Taisha to discuss the fates of all living things in the upcoming year. In Shimane, this time is called kamiarizuki, or the “month with gods.” With such a rich history, it makes sense that the shrine is the starting point of the pilgrimage.
From Izumo Taisha, the suggested path winds around Lake Shinji and Nakaumi, a brackish lake separating Shimane and Tottori prefectures. The route forms the shape of a figure 8, which is considered a lucky number in Japan, as its kanji (八) spreads outward from top to bottom, symbolizing prosperity and growth. You can visit each shrine at your leisure and do not need to follow the recommended path. By taking time to complete the pilgrimage, you can enjoy the various seasonal sights at each shrine and temple. Soft pink cherry blossom trees lining the path to Ichibata Yakushi Temple in spring, calming blue and purple hydrangea during the rainy season at Gessho-ji Temple, and vivid fall foliage at Gakuen-ji Temple are just a few of my favorite seasonal sights. Refer to the map provided at the start of the pilgrimage to see the best season to visit each shrine and temple.
A few of my favorite spots along the way are Yaegaki Shrine and Miho Shrine. Yaegaki Shrine, especially popular with young women, is visited by those seeking enmusubi, or the tying of bonds. Similar to Izumo Taisha, many visit this shrine to pray for a romantic partner or successful marriage, as well as for a healthy pregnancy. Visitors also come for the mirror pond, hoping to discover their romantic fortune. First, purchase an omikuji (fortune-telling slip) at the shrine office. Place the slip in the pond, then gently place a 10 yen coin on top. Your fortune will be revealed as water flows over the paper. If the paper sinks quickly and close to you, it is said your soulmate is someone nearby and your relationship will come to fruition soon.
Miho Shrine, nestled in a small port town, is dedicated to Ebisu, the god of fishermen and business prosperity, and Mihotsuhime, the goddess of abundant harvest. The shrine has many distinct traditions relating to the sea and the welfare of the local fishermen. If you visit on the first Sunday of January or the fourth Sunday of July, you can experience the one-of-a-kind Ink Festival, where visitors have their faces covered in a mixture of ink and water. The ink is said to protect the wearer from illnesses and shipwrecks. The town’s main industry is fishing, and if you stay overnight at one of the ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) lining the port, you will hear the fishing boats depart before sunrise. The restaurants in town offer various seafood dishes, often prepared with fish caught earlier that day.
After paying your respects, purchase a goshuin, or sacred stamp, to remember your visit. Visitors participating in the pilgrimage can receive a special stamp. For a truly unique souvenir, collect the wooden beads at each stop, engraved with the name of the shrine or temple and its associated kanji character. With the provided kit, string the beads together to make a beautiful necklace to remember your pilgrimage. Once you have completed the pilgrimage, you can apply for a certificate of completion by mail or at the final stop. With the certificate, you will receive a magatama, or curved bead. The magatama is an important cultural symbol in Shimane Prefecture and makes a beautiful final bead to add to your necklace.
Like many attractions in Shimane and Tottori prefectures, I recommend visiting by car as some locations are remote and difficult to access using public transportation. The map provided conveniently lists how long it takes to get to the next spot by car, as well as parking availability. More information about the pilgrimage can be found in English and Japanese on the pilgrimage’s website.