Explore Japan’s architectural and cultural past at this gem of a museum and try your hand at traditional indigo dyeing during your visit.
Sitting between Tokyo and Yokohama, the city of Kawasaki is part of Kanagawa Prefecture and is home to one of the region’s most fascinating museums, the Japan Open-Air Folk House Museum (Nihon Minka-en). It features more than 20 traditional buildings, mostly constructed during the Edo Period (1603 – 1868), which were relocated here from all over Japan and carefully restored to their original condition.
To set the scene for my journey through Japan’s architectural and cultural past, I started at the Exhibition Hall, which shows how folk houses were designed and built to suit the local climate and the resources available to the inhabitants. Then it was time to explore the actual houses, which are set out like a mini village among the forested slopes of the museum grounds.
The buildings showcase a diverse range of occupations and lifestyles, ranging from the former homes of farmers and fisherfolk, to merchant and samurai residences. Each one has been furnished with period-appropriate items and tools, helping me to feel a true connection to the daily lives of the people who once lived there. The lovingly-curated details tell a story of family, livelihoods and community.
Perhaps my favorite was the former Kudo home, a unique L-shaped structure from Iwate Prefecture in the Tohoku region, dating back to the mid-18th century. The family’s horses lived in a stable area attached to the main living quarters. Animals were valuable members of the family, and this style of house allowed farmers to look after their four-legged companions during the harsh Iwate winters.
Depending on the timing of your visit, you may encounter some of the museum’s docents in the houses as you walk around. I was fortunate enough to be able to watch one woman deftly weaving on a traditional loom, while another invited us to linger awhile by the cozy sunken hearth (iori) as she explained how the original inhabitants of the home cooked their meals and heated water there.
The museum caters well for international visitors, with plenty of English signage and an audio guide with QR codes, but I recommend joining a volunteer guide, some of whom speak English. Our friendly guide drew our attention to fascinating little architectural details we might have otherwise have missed, adding a personal touch to the experience.
If all this history is making you hungry, head to Shirakawago, an atmospheric soba restaurant housed in a thatched residence from Gifu Prefecture. A hearty bowl of soba noodles is the perfect pick-me-up after exploring the village.
For extra fun, why not complete your visit with an indigo-dyeing (aizome) workshop by the museum’s west gate? The rich blue of indigo has become synonymous with Japan, and you can create your own unique design using a tie-dye method at the workshop. No previous experience is necessary and you can choose from items such as a handkerchief, bandana or cloth shopping bag.
I chose to dye a tenugui (Japanese-style towel), and I enjoyed making creative use of everyday items such as film cases, laundry pegs and marbles to get the tie-dye patterns. Truth be told, I’m not exactly talented at handicrafts, but I was thrilled with the beautiful results! Advance reservations are recommended to secure a spot for the workshop.
If you want to make a day of it in Kawasaki, attractions at the surrounding Ikuta Ryokuchi Park include three museums, a planetarium and hiking trails, offering something for all tastes and ages. The Nihon Minka-en is less than 40 minutes from Shinjuku Station via the Odakyu Line. It’s a pleasant 15-minute walk from Mukogaoka Yuen Station to the museum, or you can take a bus or taxi.