Part 4 of our 10-day Japan road trip: From coastal sunsets to Matsue nights

Author Avatar Chris Lawson

After waking to the gentle lapping of waves at Michi-no-Eki Kirara Taki, we walked mere steps to Kirara Beach, with its wide stretch of golden sand and crystal-clear water. Being there so early in the morning meant the area was wonderfully peaceful. Dog walkers strolled along the shoreline while paddleboarders quietly made their way out across the calm sea. We spent some time simply enjoying the fresh sea air before setting off.

Kirara Beach

The Shrine of Sumo

Today’s destination was Matsue, the historic castle city of Shimane Prefecture. While the drive would be relatively short, we planned to take our time exploring several attractions before swapping another night at a Michi-no-Eki for something a little different — an overnight stay in the heart of the city.

Following the coastline north toward Izumo, we soon arrived at one of the city’s more unusual historical sites, Nomi-no-Sukune Shrine (located on the grounds of Izumo Taisha, one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan). Dedicated to Nomi no Sukune, the legendary figure widely regarded as the father of sumo, the shrine holds an important place in Japan’s sporting and cultural history.

According to Japanese legend, Nomi no Sukune defeated his rival in what is considered the country’s first recorded sumo contest more than 2,000 years ago. Today, wrestlers and sumo fans visit the shrine to pray for strength, success, and good fortune. The peaceful grounds, shaded by towering trees, provided a relaxing setting.

Exploring Matsue, the City of Water

As we continued east towards Matsue, we travelled alongside picturesque Lake Shinji before traversing some of Matsue’s rivers and canals — the features that give it its nickname, the City of Water. Combined with its impressive castle, well-preserved samurai district and excellent food scene, Matsue is a great spot for sightseeing, but that wasn’t our focus this time.

One thing we quickly learned during our road trip is that while Michi-no-Eki are fantastic places to spend the night, they are usually located well outside city centers. This makes them ideal for peaceful evenings but far less convenient if you want to enjoy local restaurants, bars, or nightlife.

Therefore, instead of staying at another Michi-no-Eki, we decided to spend the night in a centrally located 24-hour parking area beside Matsue Castle. The car park remained open around the clock, provided clean 24-hour toilet facilities, and allowed overnight parking. Better still, the total cost to park for the entire night came to just 1,000 yen.

As the sun disappeared behind Matsue Castle, the city began to take on a different atmosphere. Lanterns illuminated narrow streets while the tempting aromas of grilled seafood and yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) through the air. We spent the evening wandering between several izakaya and bars, discovering hidden corners that many visitors probably walk past.

One of the highlights was a traditional izakaya, Kawabata, where the friendly staff happily recommended seasonal dishes and conversations flowed between customers and staff alike.

A galactic izakaya of local sake and flavors

Our final stop proved to be an unexpected gem. Tucked away in the city center, F-RUSH is a Star Wars-style bar serving craft beers and sake from the region. From the moment we walked in, the owner made us feel incredibly welcome, enthusiastically explaining the different locally brewed drinks, their flavors, and the stories behind the breweries.

For anyone interested in nihonshu, the bar’s tasting set comprises a wide variety at just 3,000 yen for 60 minutes. The selections showcase both crisp, refreshing varieties and richer, full-bodied brews that perfectly complement traditional cuisine.

As we made the short walk back through Matsue’s quiet streets, the illuminated castle reflected beautifully against the surrounding moat. Returning to our vehicle just a few minutes later, we were reminded that sometimes the simplest overnight solutions can also be the most practical.

For us, spending a night in the center of a city opened the door to experiences we simply wouldn’t have had otherwise. Good food, local drinks, and genuine interactions with residents became just as memorable as the spectacular scenery we had enjoyed throughout the day.

Travel Tip

Japan has some of the strictest drink-driving laws in the world, and they are enforced rigorously. If you plan to enjoy alcohol during your road trip, make sure your vehicle is parked somewhere you are legally permitted to leave it overnight. A 24-hour car park or authorized overnight parking area can be a great option in city centers.

If you’re in any doubt about whether you’ll need to move your vehicle later, don’t drink alcohol until you’ve found a suitable overnight parking location. Planning ahead allows you to relax and have fun while staying safe and within the law.