Food is undeniably one of the best ways to discover a new place. When I travel, I particularly focus on finding diners, pubs, restaurants and cafes popular among locals, so I can get an authentic glimpse into what it’s like living there.
However, in the case of Kusatsu Onsen (one of the most beloved hot spring resorts in Japan), there is an important (and unexpected) factor to consider when researching the local cuisine: the hot springs. Yes, the very water that makes the town a haven is unfortunately also responsible for making it very difficult to develop a truly local cuisine. Why? That’s due to the acidity of the hot spring water running through the town. In fact, the water is apparently so acidic that it could dissolve a 6-inch nail in under 10 days–so you can imagine how that would affect the ability to grow local produce!
It may be true that a variety of ingredients must be imported, but that doesn’t mean Kusatsu lacks in the deliciousness department.
When strolling through the winding streets that spider out from the heart of the onsen town called Yubatake, I passed several soba (buckwheat noodle) shops, many with lines of eager patrons around lunch time. Soba is a very popular dish in the area, and it’s easy to understand why. There’s nothing like a light yet satisfying bowl of cold noodles after a soak in the hot baths. You can also get soba in a hearty warm soup, which makes it perfect for warming up your tummy on a cold winter day.
Tempura is also commonly found in Kusatsu, with maitake mushroom tempura being a local specialty. It’s one of the few foods that can be grown and harvested locally (yay for mushrooms)!
Pro tip for foodies: Kaiseki ryori (a traditional Japanese multi-course dinner) is perhaps the best way to savor all kinds of regional foods at once. It’s a flawlessly orchestrated, very formal way of dining, sometimes with more than a dozen small dishes, each more beautiful than the last. Kaiseki is usually included as part of a one night’s stay at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).
If you’re craving something sweet after your meal, soft-serve ice cream makes for a refreshing finish (especially when it’s warm out). Local flavors include vanilla, honey and black sesame. Enjoy your cone as you meander through the town and watch the ever-changing crowds.
Looking for a yummy souvenir to take back home for your family, friends or coworkers? You can’t go wrong with the small, brown sugar steamed buns filled with anko (sweet red bean paste) called onsen manju.
As for beverages, there’s no shortage of tea houses and coffee shops in Kusatsu Onsen where you can stop in for a green tea, cafe latte or even a smoothie. Many offer snacks or sweets like cakes to-go with their signature beverages. You can even stop by a bar or izakaya to take out an icy cold beer to accompany you on your stroll.
Kusatsu Onsen: https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e7400.html
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/X9AoqruJSSi2sJpw7
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