Shokuyoku no aki is a Japanese idiom meaning that autumn is the season of eating. Just like bears and squirrels, which aim to accumulate some extra bulk before the cold winter, we also instinctively tend to develop a bigger appetite around this time of year.
There are all kinds of autumn foods to enjoy in Japan, including sweet potatoes, chestnuts, persimmons and, of course, matsutake mushrooms. You may not expect this from such a grubby-looking fungus, but matsutake is one of the most expensive ingredients in the world.
A delicacy since ancient times, matsutake can cost as much as some rare varieties of black truffle — around 15,000 yen per 100 grams. Its rarity, the immense difficulty of cultivating it artificially, and its earthy, spicy aroma and complex, umami-rich flavor profile make it a highly prized ingredient.
Although there are numerous ways to prepare matsutake, dobin mushi is among the most classic. The dish is named after the teapot-shaped vessel called a dobin, in which matsutake, chicken, fish or shrimp, and other seasonal vegetables are cooked in a dashi broth. After pouring the broth into a small cup and picking out the ingredients for yourself, you can squeeze in a few drops of aromatic yuzu or sudachi citrus to finish.
