Back in May, I returned to one of my favorite ryokan inns located in Aichi Prefecture — this time, not for business, but for a birthday celebration. It was the truest form of “sit back and relax,” with so many moments of unexpected surprise woven throughout our two-night, three-day retreat in the unassuming, quaint corner of the Atsumi Peninsula.
The journey begins in Kamakura
As someone who didn’t grow up with a family car, it’s only been in the past few years that I truly began to understand the fun of traveling on wheels. It’s true, Japan is train country, and the efficiency and mind-blowing punctuality of the railway system has always made owning a car feel unnecessary, and I would even say, a burden.
But once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to go back. The privacy, the guaranteed seating (in other words, no need to battle a salaryman or impressively swift obachan), the freedom from the shackles of gaman (just having to deal with it) in a jam-packed train is…quite world-changing. So, in our comfy, shimmering orange car, we head off from Kamakura to Tahara — one coast to another.
You may be a master driver in your home country, but the thought of taking the wheel in Japan might feel intimidating. It goes without saying that you are not alone. There are, of course, rules in Japan that you will need to research beforehand (the biggest one being staying on the left), but I hope I can relieve even a bit of your nerves when I say it’s really not that hard.
Well, there are varying difficulties, like Tokyo (so I’ve heard), which is a beast. Kamakura, where I live, has its own challenges, mainly narrow, meandering roads, but in my recent experience taking a road trip through the more rural regions from Shimane to Tottori prefectures, the drive was so smooth and easy (and this is coming from a beginner driver with less than a year of experience!).
So, the decision to rent a car does depend on your itinerary — whether you’re just traveling around the big cities like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, where it would be totally sufficient (and easier) to just use public transportation, or heading off the beaten track to more rural areas (HIGHLY recommend), in which case renting a car would be the way to go. In any case, I would recommend you obtain your International Driving Permit because you might come here, take a look at the roads, and think, I got this! Just make sure to study up beforehand.
Tadaima to our beloved 100-year-old home
Who am I to call this beautiful traditional Japanese ryokan my home, but I have had the pleasure of working with the owner and the team here and helping promote this timeless, 100-year-old treasure, so at this point, I feel like I know it well enough to say, tadaima (I’m home), and that’s really how I felt.
My last visit was almost exactly a year ago, and it exceeded all of what I had anticipated (despite all of the images I had seen and research I had done). I think the aspect that really captured my surprise was the wooden sign that stands in the genkan (entrance) as guests come in. It says, “We do not offer slippers here. Please enjoy the feel and texture of the wood.”
It’s a simple message that conveyed something profound about the character of the ryokan, which is that it may be 100 years old and be designated a Tangible Cultural Property by the country, but it is anything but entitled. It wants you to feel welcome and at home, not like you’re stepping into a museum where the security guards are eagle-eyed and signs everywhere glare those red no’s and don’ts at you, telling you all the things you’re not allowed to do or touch.
I mean, I would understand if that were the case with this ryokan, because it is a piece of history that must be preserved and protected. But I think the permission Kakujoro gifts opens up room for guests to really breathe and unwind. That’s something I love about this place, and I felt it again on my second visit.
Vegan dinner to conclude the night
There is so much more I want to share about my room, the friendly staff, etc., but that is exactly why I am turning this into a miniseries, so I will keep it simple this time and close my piece with my favorite topic…food, of course!
I’ve dived into the scrumptious vegan cuisine at Kakujoro in my previous piece, but they blew me away yet again. As I was feasting on every thoughtfully prepared dish — from deep-fried seasonal veggie tempura to Japanese radish daikon “steak” slathered in a soy sauce-based umami sauce, all paired beautifully with homemade umeshu (plum wine) — I found myself taking it all for granted.
As a plant-based eater, rarely can I take meals for granted. Eating out requires plenty of research beforehand. If I find myself at a restaurant unsure of the veggie options, I need to prepare myself for some polite negotiation. And even if the chef is able to customize a certain dish, my Japanese side comes out in full force, feeling moushiwakenai (so sorry) with every fibre of my being for inconveniencing her (although I am entirely aware that I shouldn’t have to feel that way).
So, when I do find myself in a completely natural state of not having to convince the staff to please figure out a way to feed me, it is a gift. The staff brought out dish after dish of vegan food without a sliver of hesitation or any sense of passive aggression. It was all done so thoughtfully, without a second thought. Another layer of total welcome that I felt.
